Introduction to Right Angle Weave (R.A.W.)

So, I get this question every now and then on whether my tutorials uses 'cross weave'. So, I thought it apt that I write a post on this subject. (Actually, I wrote about  this before, just not here. I can't believe I've not touched on this topic before here!)

Yes, I use mainly the 'cross weave' technique or what some might call it as two-needle
Right Angle Weave (R.A.W). However, in my very early stages of doing R.A.W, I used to Use
the one-needle R.A.W but once I learnt about the two-needle one, I've not look back ever since.

The pendant above was actually one of the few earliest project I did on R.A.W. which I thought was rather easy to follow and understand. I reckon most of you would have been familiar with this stitch already but for those of you who have not tried making jewelry before, you might want to give this a shot. I've always think this to be a very simple yet effective project.

Before i jump straight into the project and also for the benefit of those not in the know, let me share with you my interpretation of what is a 'cross weave'.

Now, I use this phrase a lot --> "Cross both thread ends at ......"

This is the literal way of explaining the position of the thread for this stitch. Now, what happens is both the ends (hence, the two-needle idea) of a thread crosses in the opposite directions through the beads.

I will zoom out a little to show you the bigger picture. It is normally done in sets of four beads but it can also be more than that, but that's another story.

So, what happens as you pull the two thread ends in the opposite direction is the bring all the beads close together and more often than not, in a full circle.

Alright, now that you kinda get an idea what it's about, let's give this stitch a try.

Okay, first things first. You will need:

• (8) approx. 5X8 mm rice shaped freshwater pearl
• (4) 5mm Swarovski bicone bead
• Fishing line
• Scissors

Step 1
Cut out approximately 50cm long fishing line and string on 1 pearl, 1 bicone, 1 pearl and 1 bicone

Step 2

Cross both thread ends at the last bicone bead you added. You will see that the beads now form a circle, or rather rectangular-ish since the 4 beads form 4 sides.

Step 3
String on 1 rice bead and 1 crystal bicone on the left thread. String on 1 rice bead on the right thread.

Step 4
Cross both thread ends at the crystal bicone.

Step 5
Repeat step 3 and 4 one more time.

Step 6
String on 1 rice bead on the right thread and bring the thread end down and pass through the crystal bicone right at the bottom.

Step 7
Repeat step 6 on the left thread.

Step 8 
Pull tight and you will see the barrel forming.

Step 9
Bring the right thread up and through the rice bead, to the left through the crystal bicone and down through the rice bead so that the two thread ends meet.

Step 10
Tie a knot and you're done! Well, not quite. :) There's still some finishing off to do!

We need to end the threads and it's not like we can cut off the excess thread just like that. Even with a knot, the material of the fishing line itself is such that the knot will tend to 'slide' open if left in the 'open'.

So, this is what we need to do.

Step 11
Pass both thread ends through the surrounding beads before cutting off the excess. There's really no rule on how you should pass the thread around but as a rule of thumb, if there is one, pass it through along the thread path and the more beads you pass through, the more secure it is. And passing the thread in a 'zig zag' fashion will be more secured than say, in a 'straight' fashion.

Did I hear a "Huh?"

LOL .... okay, that's another story I'll leave it for next time.

Alright, back to finishing off the threads. Like what you see in the pictures above. I started with passing both threads down through the pearl bead. And you can continue by passing through the bicone bead on the right and thereafter the pearl bead below it on the sides and on and on,  up to you.

But since this Is only a small project/object, I think I'll just stop here and cut off the excess.

For the technicality of finishing off thread, you can refer to this post here.

Now, using the same stitch, try experimenting with different sizes and shapes of bead and see how it turns out to be.

Have fun! ;)

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A cool jump ring trick!

Well, at least I think that it is! Heh! :P

It was in my previous post that I realized I've not blogged bout the basic of opening and closing of jump rings and so just for the sake of completion? collection?, I shall blog a post about.

I'm sure most of you would have know bout this already but I'll just share with you how I normally do it and a cool little trick that you can do with jump rings.

For those commercial jump rings that you can buy off retail, you will either find them to be closed or open jump rings. Meaning to say that they are either well,......closed or open.

A;ternatively, you can also make your own, heheh! :P

And so here, we have a closed jump ring.

You'll notice that the ends of the jump ring on each side kinda overlaps with each other but that's alright. It can be sorted out just by opening and closing it.

I think it's probably due to the way the cut out the rings from the coil.

Anyway, with your pliers gripping onto each side of the jump ring..... (here, I'm using chain nose plierss on the left and round nose pliers on the right but you can use any other pliers that you are comfortable with)

And pull each side apart from each other in opposite direction simultaneously.

Okay, the key word here is simultaneously cuz I've realized it sometimes doesn't quite closed nicely in a circle if you don't do it simultaneously.

Well, what I mean is that I sometimes have the habit of gripping on one side in a stationary position and let the other side pull away. Erm, know what I mean?

In those circumstances, I've noticed that they don't open up nicely.

*shrugs* hhhmmmm, or maybe it's just me? o_O

And to close the jump ring, very easy. Just push two sides of the ring towards each other.

And, voila!

Actually, this is not my favourite method because for some strange reasons I sometimes can't grip them steadily. Well, I reckon it's more a matter of my personal idiosyncrasy rather than anything else! :P

So what I do is actually grip onto half of the circle rather than just at the sides of the jump ring.

(hmmm.... I still can't decide whether I'm crazy about how the Panasonic Lumix LX5 takes macro shots where it's sharp at where it focuses and blurry on the surroundings. o_O)


And then use another plier to grip onto the other half of the circle in opposite direction before pulling it apart from each other.

Heh! Just how I like to do it. :P

Ouh, actually, I just remembered another trick on opening and closing jump ring! It just came across my mind as I was typing just now. Don't think can fit into this post now, so I think I'll share it in future posts.

Anyway, that was just the warm up. What I really want to share in this post is this little trick that you can do with your jump rings. More like a design trick if you ask me.

You'll need to link many many jump rings together.

You'll also soon realize what a tedious job it can be to link many many jump rinhs together one by one.

This is how I do it when I need to link many many jump rings together. I don't exactly do it one by one cux I found another way which I find is faster.

I've never exactly timed myself but it did feel like it was done a wee bit faster.

So, this is how I do it.

I first closed two jump ring.

Then, I open one jump ring and slide the two closed one in...............

And close that ring.





And that's how you get the 3 jump ring link shown in the above. I find it's a faster way of linking the three together than say, if you open and close one by one to join them together.

And to continue joining jump rings to the link, close one jump ring.

Open one jump ring and slide that closed one in.

And slide on the longer link (in this case, the three jump ring link earlier on). Close the ring and it feels like you have just joined four jump rings together in 2 steps. Well, that's what it always feel like for me! LOL... :P

That is how you'll be continue adding on links until your desired length.

Next is where the trick is. :)

Now, take a piece of wire and slide the wire randomly through each jump ring.

Okay, key word here is through and each until you've passed through the end of the link like the very first picture.

After you have pass through all, next is where I think is the fun part!

You slide all the rings down.

See how the rings all clump up together that gives it that grunge look?

I think it works quite nicely when you incorporate them into your design like what I've did in the two bracelets below here.

Pretty neat, huh? ;)

The one above was done in wire sections whereas the one below done with memory wire.

Have fun trying! :)

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Make Your Own Fancy Toggle Clasp : Part II

Part I here.

If making the fancy ring clasp for your own handmade jewelry was quick and easy, then making this T-bar for your own toggle clasp to finish off your bracelet or necklace is easy pea! ;)

Well, if you ask me, I believe this handmade fancy toggle clasp for your own bracelet or what not is perfect for beginners in jewelry making or just anyone who do not fancy the wire wrapping version since, admitedly, they are indeed more tedious work and more time-consuming.

So, if you want a quick and effective one, you can try this! ;)

Okay, to make the T-bar is really very easy. A pre-requisite is that you have to know how to make a wrapped loop. If you do not, you may want to visit here.

So, first thing first. Measure the diameter of your ring to decide on the length of your T-bar because logically, your T-bar needs to be longer that the diameter of your ring in order to 'lock' together.

As you can see from the picture here, my T-bar is approximately 1/2" in diameter. So, my T-bar should be longer that 1/2" but yet I don't want to make it too long else it might appear a bit chunky

I cut out approximately 5" long wire.

With my round nose pliers, I grip onto the center of the piece of wire.

And wrap the wire around the nose to form this kind of loop. Do you see a 'T' forming now? 

Note that the two ends of the wire are level to each other.

Now, twist both wires around to secure their position. If you would like the 'neck' of the T-bar to be longer, you can of course twist the wires around more than once. (See how much fun it is to make your own jewelry findings? You can have control over pretty much everything!)

This is roughly how it should look like now.

Now, to complete the arms of the 'T', we need to do a little calculations.

Alright, we know that the diameter of the ring is 1" long. Technically, we'll need to measure the arms to be more than 1" but fact is we are going to retain the length of 1".

Why, you ask? How can the two lock when they are of the same size. The T-bar would have easily slip out from the ring.

But here's one thing you have probably forgotten. The loop at the center and ends (where I'll show you hotw to finish it off), all add some length to the T-bar. To ignore this fact might end you up with a much longer T-bar than anticipated. Therefore, it might be a good idea to retain the size and let the additional work naturally add length to it,

So, dividing the full length into 2, you'll need to measure 1/4"on each end.

I won't be adding on anymore measurements to it because by the time I end each end with a wrapped loop, it will inevitably add on to the measurements, which is why I'm adding beads on each end at 1/4" length. 

I

Once you've added the beads of your choice, make sure to push the beads right down and grip the top with your pliers to make a right angle bend.

Wrap the wire end around to make a loop.

At this stage, this is probably how it will look like.

And wrap your wire ends around a few times more to make a wrapped loop at the end.

Cut of the excess wire and do the necessary tucking in of any visible wire as we would not want to risk cutting the wearer!

Repeat the same on the other side and there you have it! I told you it was easy pezy! ;)

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